3D Railroad Concept and Design - create precision layouts in any ScaleSearch Software:WWWBestShareware.net Software DirectoriesGraphics3D Railroad Concept and Design3D Railroad Concept and Design is a full featured CAD program for designing the model railroad layouts.3D Railroad Concept And Design Version 2.0 for Windows includes all the tools and functionality found inprevious versions with some fantastic upgrades. Now, in addition to the accurate drawing tools,list compilers, custom benchwork, extensive catalog listings and libraries of manufacturer products,and stunning 3D graphics, we have added ideas and functionality as requested by modelrailroad enthusiasts.
We've done our best to make 3D Railroad Concept & Design?the mostcomprehensive model railroad design tool on the market, while still keeping it easy to use.With you, the model railroader, in mind, we added the magic 'Track Wizard',and is he ever smart. With this new tool you can select the type of track piece yourequire such as helix, spiral easement, turnout, etc. Next, you enter a combinationof dimensions such as length, angle, radius, entry length, offset, etc.With this information, the powerful 'Track Wizard' will create the more complextrack pieces automatically. You can save them into a personal libraryand use them as often as you like.Model railroad enthusiasts also requested the ability to create custom 3D terrainand we provided it.
We have developed a tool to accommodate complex geometric algorithms.With this powerful 'Terrain Tool,' you can draw custom terrain to almost any shape needed.In the Terrain Editor, you can raise or lower the altitudes on individualor surrounding grid points. Then you can apply a large number of available textures tofurther customize the terrain. Activate the Conform Terrain function to create tunnels,valleys or graded track and cause the terrain to conform to all objects placed.Creating 3D-terrain has never been easier.
The article was well written and contained very use information and great links. I was able to understand everything and enjoyed the photos that helped to clarify the issues even more. I was thankful that the author avoided the 'technical' conversation that often accompanies many articles written for amateurs like me. It is not necessary to have an engineering degree to understand something as complex as the 3D process, especially when the author takes time to explain things so that others can get a good understanding. or to post comments.
I love the work done designing that building, BUT. I see several parts I would 3d print (and have done so for several years now). The rest is xacto time for me.
I would do the steps, the windows, the roof ventilators, etc. I recently did an ON30 machine shop.
None of the structure was 3d printed but ALL of the interior shop goodies were done. I love my 3d printer and I think the article was very well done.
I am fortunate that I got a piece of software years ago that has been a huge part of my enjoyment of 3d stuff. Its called Cubify Invent. I don't think it is avaialbe any longer but what an easy fast way to get into 3d. You don't draw, you assemble from known things. Things being boxes, cylinders, cones etc. Once stuck together you end up with a part ready to print.
I have yet to have an object created in Invent NOT print. Here are some examples.
Excellent intro on 3d printing with tons of good details, including the limitations.As far as software to build your own models, after using Sketchup for years, since last year I started using. Autodesk is behind this and they made a really good job. It's all online and free; it works really well for simple or moderately complex pieces.One neat feature is to do boolean operations by simply marking an object as a hole and grouping it with another to create a substraction. Last time I used Sketchup, that was only available in the Pro version.Designs can be either private or public. They can then be exported as STL or OBJ, or shared for others to reuse.
Here's an example where I rebuilt the truck's wormgear cover for a Rapido F40PH engine. Printing does not change painting. Hence, I feel at this point that separate parts are best and then assembled after painting us complete.What more, when you make a kit of separate parts, you can use the redundant parts for other models. When I made my thresher file, I made a separate file for the wheels and the pulley set so that they could be offered or printed separate from the main model. Why retool detail parts for each model when one set of detail parts can be used for multiple kits?!:). or to post comments.
Benny,I have always painted my models after they are assembled. I know that most people paint before assembly, but i do it the opposite. Works better for me this way.As far as printing the 3D models, essentially everything could be printed separately or fully assembled, or somewhere in between. In my case, I have not desire to assemble anything so I print as assembled as is practical.
This minimized the amoung of work to be done. I have too much to do to spend much time assemblying kits.I know, that's weird. or to post comments.
Thanks for pointing that out; it's my mistake. I believe I got that number (1:29.3) from misreading the variety of scales that are used with 45mm gauged track. My past experience has all been with the smaller scales - O, from my Lionel/Marx days as a child, a bit of S from my cousin's and a friend's American Flyer, HO and N scale, and building aircraft, ship, and armor models in various scales.I think that you would be able to create a wealth of detail parts for F scale with a 3D printer. or to post comments.
Just last night my wife said to me, 'I have an idea for something for you for your model railroad, but I don't know if you'd like it. The price has come down a lot.' I said, 'Is it a 3D printer?'
She almost fell on the floor, since this is something we have NEVER talked about before. Maybe I should have let her keep it a secret?Anyhow, this article was just what I needed to get started looking at a 3D printer, and it gave me good ideas on how I could use one. I'll be sending my lovely wife a copy. Thanks Janet!BTW, here are some bridge piers I had printed at a local high school a couple of years back. I left the molding lines since I thought they looked like concrete form lines.
Nearly any 3D printer, especially a filament printer, is going to show varying degrees of layering. For a $400 printer, it looks pretty good. There is a post-production processor that smoothes all the lines out. But it smooths out the details, too.Even professional $10,000 printers will show lines. Smaller lines, closer together. It's the nature of the beast.
It's not a Star Trek replicator building things on the atomic level!There's no such thing as a 'layer-free' or 'layerless' 3D printer, though some of the new technologies using liquid resins and controling the oxygen at the print interface come close. Those machines probably cost more than your house, though. The company that builds them only LEASES them out. I don't have any pix (but I will shortly) but a few very thin coats of primer will do wonders for those lines.
I spray a very light coat and let dry. Before the next print I lightly scrub the surface with a scotch pad. Then the next coat until I reach an 'adequite' skin. The goal is to take the highlights of the lines and 'dim' them down without destroying any details. There are some good threads on here about detail objectives. If you are holding the piece in your hand as a contest model, the lines will show.
If it's a structure on a 10x12 layout, nobody will see any lines! I love doing 'accent' pieces for my track level scenes.
RussON30 details for inside the machine shop. A table with drawers and a lumber stack that is hollow. Next is a workbench with a vise, vise stands in the background along with a hand truck for the weldings tanks, and a shop cart. Good article as it provided some insight about in-home printers. Your article left out the scaling factor for S Scale. If there’s ever a scale that can benefit from 3D printing it’s S Scale.
I’ve been using 3D printing to to produce Detail parts in S for some time now and it’s truly what our Scale has needed given the lack of available parts. The attached photo shows a completed GP 38-2 that was 3D printed in S Scale.
The cab, short and long hoods, fuel tank, pilots, step wells, snow plow, and many of the detail parts were all 3D printed from files that I generated.Bob Frascella. or to post comments. 'if there’s ever a scale that can benefit from 3D printing it’s S Scale. I’ve been using 3D printing to to produce Detail parts in S for some time now and it’s truly what our Scale has needed given the lack of available parts.
The attached photo shows a completed GP 38-2 that was 3D printed in S Scale'Yeah, S can certainly use more detail parts and 3D printing is much better than nothing but it lacks the economy of numbers, a thousand parts costs the same to print each part as it costs to print the first one where casting is cheaper as the numbers increase. The size of an S scale engine or freight car causes the printed part to be quite expensive so I doubt 3D printing will win over many new S modelers. Existing S modelers are more likely to build a printed model if it is something they think they can't live without or a signature model of a certain scene or railroad. The rest of us are used to bending our equipment needs to suit what is already available.DaveB. Yeah, S can certainly use more detail parts and 3D printing is much better than nothing but it lacks the economy of numbers, a thousand parts costs the same to print each part as it costs to print the first one where casting is cheaper as the numbers increase.If economy of scale was all that important, then where are all the S scale cast parts? For small markets, 3D printing beats out cast parts.It's the case of any part, even if a little pricey, is better than NO part.
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In other words. I need ten S scale parts, price $5 each, so $50.Or I could get them down to $1 each with casting, but I need to spend $10,000 on cutting a mold first.I'll take the $5 and $50 total any day over $10,000 up front cost. It's that kind of narrow minded, let's just settle, attitude that's the reason why S scale is still in the dark ages and no progressing like the others. The average cost of a 3D printed S scale locomotive is around $350. This is with no DCC.
You can't touch MTH or a SHS unit for that. An American Models GP9 might be close but to get it to the level of detail of the 3D printed units.
I just can't believe that putting down a technology that can help to grow a scale is a bad thing. If it weren't for the rift bretween scale and American Flyer, there's a good chance that S may have been what HO is today. It's the perfect scale! So as for me I'm going to continue to help develope 3D printed parts and if anyone doesn't want them then more for me. I NEVER want to hear the phrase 'it can't be done' or ' we don't have that so we need to make due' when it come to S scale ever again!
This is a ridiculous argument and very backward thinking!. or to post comments. 'If economy of scale was all that important, then where are all the S scale cast parts?'
That's my point. S scale doesn't have the models or parts selection that HO has parts so fewer people model in S scale. Give us more cheaper stuff and there will be more S scalers. Sure 3D printing can help the supply problem but it's a pretty crude inefficient method for making multiples of the same thing.The cost of mold work is spread out over every piece with no point where it declines as it does with large number casting runs, so we're really talking about short sighted versus long sighted, or how many modelers do we want to see buying the stuff over the coming years? Make it easier and cheaper( see HO or N scales)and they'll come.DaveB.
'I NEVER want to hear the phrase 'it can't be done' or ' we don't have that so we need to make due' when it come to S scale ever again! This is a ridiculous argument and very backward thinking!' That's the reality of the situation. If you want to get on with building a layout you have to learn to use what is available. Making every part and piece of rolling stock from scratch or 3D or whatever takes more time than most folks want to devote to a hobby. My point is that S scale can grow thanks to 3D printing.
Where there might be one S scaler today due to lack of parts there might be 10 tomorrow thanks to 3D printing. So the scale could grow by 10x overnight with something like 3D printing.Plus, your point about mold casting being cheaper in only true today when the customer base is huge. 3D printing fills the gap between tiny and huge today — and who is to say 3D printing won’t be cheaper eventually once it’s a mainstream method that’s high quality and the machines are highly affordable?In the meantime, 3D printing allows any scale's audience to naturally grow because small audience product runs will no longer be a gating factor. If they grow enough that doing mold casting becomes viable, then great. In the meantime, 3D printing is making products available that simply were not possible in the past due to economics of audience size not being affordable.I know of some model firms that are now 3D printing parts for their products because the sales are moderate — not enough to justify cast parts, but 3D printing makes it possible for them to have plastic parts in their assembly without breaking the bank to cut molds. So it’s not all either.
There is a huge middle ground now thanks to 3D printing. It's really pretty much a chicken or the egg type of problem. There are fewer people in S scale so fewer parts are marketed towards them. If there were more people, more manufacturers would try to put products in their hands. I really don't think people choose or avoid a scale anymore because detail parts aren't locally stocked. If that was the case, model railroaders would all be found within a rather limited radius of larger hobby shops.People choose a scale for multiple reasons, and parts availability is only one of them. I still have my Lionel stuff from when I was a kid.
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I still have my N scale stuff from when I was in the service. I went into N scale from Lionel O scale because I didn't have anywhere near the room or time I'd need for a layout in O scale. I went into HO scale because it ran better than the N scale stuff I had, but not as good as the Lionel stuff from 30 years before. I didn't go back into O scale because what was available in O scale couldn't match the bang-for-the-buck of what was available in HO. Looking for detail parts for kitbashing or superdetailing really wasn't a driving force in choosing a scale for me, and still isn't, honestly. While I was in a scale, I either made do with what I could find or built my own versions. This may be an overgeneralization, but it's likely that way with a lot of modelers.About mold cost: I've had jobs at a smaller company that made a couple thousand pieces a year (making battle lanterns for the Navy) running about six injection molders and at a larger company that makes literally billions of injected molded razors and razor cartridges a year.
The cost for the molds at each company was wildly different: about 10-20 thousand per mold for one or two molds for each part at the smaller company, and well north of 50K per mold (and anywhere up to a couple dozen molds for each part) at the larger company - which also spent north of 10K per year on replacing worn parts of each of those molds, and ran literally dozens of injection molding machines up to 24/7 as required by market conditions. Yeah, the price for an individual part was down into the pennies, but the overall expense for just the molds, nevermind the injection molding machines was in the millions. Both companies had life spans for their molds that were expected to run about 20 years. That's a pretty daunting prospect for most hobby manufacturers, and probably why a lot of the injection molding for hobby products has migrated overseas.3D printing is a lot more attractive compared to those costs when you need less than several dozen thousand pieces, even if the price per piece is higher.Janet N. or to post comments. Joe stated:If economy of scale was all that important, then where are all the S scale cast parts? For small markets, 3D printing beats out cast parts.It's the case of any part, even if a little pricey, is better than NO part.
In other words. I need ten S scale parts, price $5 each, so $50.Or I could get them down to $1 each with casting, but I need to spend $10,000 on cutting a mold first.I'll take the $5 and $50 total any day over $10,000 up front cost.For the entrepreneur that would like to start a small business of providing parts in any scale on a small run bases can use 3D printing for the master part and then resort to using an expoxy mold. The buisness would need to invest in a table top plastic injection machine for small parts run.Table top injection machine:Epoxy Molds:No need for a $10,000 aluminum mold. Injection machine cost is approimatley $3,000 plus cost of 3D printer (?) and your in business of creating short run plastic parts.Bernd.
'For the entrepreneur that would like to start a small business of providing parts in any scale on a small run bases can use 3D printing for the master part and then resort to using an expoxy mold. The buisness would need to invest in a table top plastic injection machine for small parts run.' That's the kind of thinking I like. Finish up the first part and use it for a mold so we don't have to smooth every subsequent 3D item we get. I don't know what kind of mold Details associates or Details west used for their hundreds of small parts but based on their selling price I doubt they spent $10,000 for molds for each little part?DaveB.
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